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January 26, 2008


Pinch_overhang04 Because of too much drinking on Friday, I wasn't feeling well this day. But like the usual weekend, I went to Dead End area to see Minaemon finishing Dead End (1 Kyu). This day he did not have luck to the problem. I also tried Teshigawara Mika no Hansei (Sho Dan); again no luck. Today I had no motivation....

Afternoon, we moved to Gyokudou Museum area for Pinch Overhang (Sho Dan) and Fat Blocker (Sho Dan). I have checked Pinch Overhang on youtube so I knew about the crazy dyno. I tried 20 to 30 time and committed for dynos; but no luck man!!!! I touched the jug at the top but couldn't hold on to it. Oh well, I will do it next time Gadget.
Around 2pm, strong boulders from Yokohama BPUMP2 came over to the area. I had some sessions with them on Fat Blocker. But with the first try, one sharp edge on the rock scraped my finger leaving me super injury... Oh well oh well... The blood did not stop for around 20 minutes, ouch. After bleeding stopped, I tried Fat Blocker. Two moves, I was able to do, but it was too hard 3rd move which is a cross over. This one have to be practices many times....
3pm, we went to Australia boulder and tried Monky Pocket (Sho Dan). This one was difficult as well. It is sit down start with super bad heel hook, I pulled my thy muscle... I had on luck on any problem but its okay, as long as they are all fun.

 今日は前日の飲み会で寝不足かつ二日酔いだったので登れる気がしませんでした。が、とりあえずデッドエンドエリアへ向かう。もうミナエモンさんは登っていた(笑)僕もアップをしてテッシーをトライするが調子は絶不調…。ポケットが取れないヽ(`Д´)ノウワァン 諦めますた。とにかく進めないのでやる気なし!

 お昼ごろ玉堂美術館エリアへ行く。例によってピンチ・オーバーハング(初段)ファット・ブロッカー(初段)を目当に向かう。とりあえずyoutubeでピンチ・オーバーハングはチェックしておいたのでムーヴは分かってました。とにかくランジ一撃という課題。youtubeでは簡単そうに登ってますが、これやってみるとありえない距離とスタンスなので飛べないヽ(`Д´)ノウワァン 20-30回は飛びましたが上にあるガバを触れるくらいで止まらない…。でも何だか次にはできそうな予感です。







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Posted by: satomix | January 29, 2008 at 12:59 AM

17日(日)!是非!ですが、アメリカ出張が入りそうで現在交渉中です。( ´△`)アァ-出張じゃなくてクライミングに行きたひー。また状況分かったら連絡しますね!

Posted by: たまりっひ | January 29, 2008 at 03:41 AM


Posted by: satomix | January 29, 2008 at 06:06 PM

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