I've been to NYC to see Unified Bouldering Championship or UBC. There were 2 walls with total of 6 problems in the center of Central Park. I guess there were 5 men and 5 women to be in the finals. Sasha was there climbing strong, one of M's fan:)
Anyway, it was very exciting to see. I was able to meet with S who we climbed together at Hueco Tanks. I am happy to see him back in states!
After few bad severe rains in weekdays, we got a good weather on Sunday. Yasu, or Seita in previous posts, joined with taka and I to Near Trapps. G mentioned me that it will be covered with spiderwebs and it was...
Since it was our first time in Nears, we went through the problems. Many uphills and downhills... At around noon, we finally started to climb. Yasu and I went through V0-V1s at matterhorn boulder however the down climb sucked so taka did not do any of the problems there.
We went down to hidden river roof boulder. I think I was able to finish Little Woman in a Small World V6, because the guide book doesn't tell you a lot. I would rate at most V5... Also I did V1 and V2 problems on the same boulder.
Next boulder I tried The Resource Room V4* but could not finish the problem because the moisture in the horizontal crack. Don't Always, Never Again V3 was impossible, I guess some of hold teared off.
Lastly, we moved to sunkist boulder. There I tried Waiting for the Messiah V7*. Start looks nice but with my short legs, it was hard to reach the very far heel hook... The other crux was getting out of the cave, heavy barn door makes hard to get a tiny crimp. Any way I was managed to red point it, may be V6 range but have to know the movements.
taka and Yasu finished Hidden Orange V2*. Common Gunks problem where you follow the horizontal crack and up to the lip. The holds are sharp and hurts a lotXD I tried and thought it was quite a fun problem.
There are few other problems that I want to get on to, Pearl V8* and Cream Cheese V6. I donno if I have that motivation because the hike is crazy...
続いてSmall Worldがあるhidden river roof boulderへ。トポの解説からだと非常に判断しにくいがLittle Woman in a Small World V6を登った。体感的にはV6ほどではなかったと思う。もしかしたら小さいから登り易かったのかもしれない。takaとYasuくんは隣のSmall World V1を。takaはあっさり完登、さすが経験がものを言う。Yasuくんも無事に完登。
During Independence Day, we are going to Nova Scotia, Canada for taka's wish to visit Prince Edward Island and my wish for bouldering:) Last year in Squamish, I met a guy who is from NS and I was able to contact with him. Kindly enough he will show me how to get to Dover Island where we have to ride a fisherman's boat to reach the bouldering area.
I have already purchased a guide book and a dvd to motivate myself. Hopefully the weather will be good.
Independence Dayにあわせてちょっと休暇をもらった。takaがPrince Edward Islandへ行きたいとのことなのでNova Scotia（カナダ）へ行くことに。いつものことですが、ごめんなさい、クライミングもしますorz Prince Edward Islandといえば赤毛のアン、いまさらながらだけど勉強しておかんと
After attempting Boxcar Arete V8*, I got split finger on my index finger, it was bleeding badly for long time. damn.... Today's climbing is all done with only few climbs... But with a lot of pain to my index finger, I was manage to finish Boxcar Boulder Problem V4*. I donno if the original is left to right but fun problem. I think right to left is harder. Any way, I have to wait for fall to get cooler and have to get my index finger healed!
I got tickets to El Paso for Hueco Tanks bouldering tour, flying in Dec.23rd and out Jan.2nd. Tickets were purchased by reward so I spent 44,000 miles for 2 tickets. Have to prepare for Hueco!
El Paso行きのチケット（12/23-1/2）をマイレジで購入。2人で44,000マイルとハカクw Huecoへ行く準備をしますっ(・_・)/
All of the items in Rock and Snow at New Paltz were 20% off on Memorial Day Holidays. Because I got a hole in my Python, I purchased another one. Original price was $130 so 20% off was a great deal for me.
そういえば、Memorial Day SaleでNew PaltzのRock and Snowですべての商品20%オフだった。穴が開き始めたPythonをもう一足本気用に買った。元値が税抜きで$130だったので相当安い。ありがたい
Another news is that taka and I bought annual multi facility pass for Gravity Vault. It was $800 per person, I though it is a good deal. We can go both Upper Saddle Brook and Chatham. I heard GV renew the problem in high frequency.
それから、Gravity VaultのMulti Facility会員になった。年会で$800/人。ちょっと遠いのがアレだけど課題が多いし頻繁に課題が変わるみたいだからイイねヽ(‘ ∇‘ )ﾉ