taka, Shiro (our dog) and I had trip to Lincoln Woods; the temperature is around 97 degrees in forecast. We stayed at hotel close to Lincoln, RI.
Saturday we left our house 7am and with traffic, we arrived at Lincoln Woods at around 11:15am. It was bit cooler because park is in the woods. We parked our car at parking lot close to the gate but suddenly squall hit the area... Oh shiiiiit.
While it gets dried, we had lunch and bought some beer:) At around 3:30pm, we started to climb. Outside was roughly 90 degrees or so with high humidity.
I have finished several V4s, one V5, one V6 in the hottest day.
Iron Cross V4**** was good gymnastic traverse, big jugs:) Neil's Lunge V4*** was balancy and reach problem. I donno if there is shorter people move but I was able to finish it... felt hard because of reach issue but managed to finish by matching a smaller hold. Hats Off V6**, I flashed it. I though it was easier problem for shorter person because of close heel hooks. Sit Down Traverse V5*** was good traverse problem but not in the humid day because you have to stick to many slopey holds.
Anyway, the rating was fare but depends on your technique, I personally is better doing traverse due to less reach issues. However today, anything above V5 was too hot to climb... I just didn't have that much of motivation to do hard stuff.
Next place we went was Chebucto's Foot; it was hard to find from guide book. Because we wandered around looking for boulders, it took us about 30 minutes walking from Twin Sister Boulders. I thought having someone local is very important. We loose so much time...
Anyway, at Chebucto's Foot, there were few easier problems. I got on to The A Team V4 SDS** and started to solve the problem. With few tries I was able to finish but again it was a dead point problem making my fingers hurt...
Since we came all over from Twin Sister, I mind as well got onto easy ones like Mantle Pro V2* and Little Piggy V3 SDS. They were both fun enough:)
taka with less of reach => more dead point => finger pains, she did not try as much as I did so she tried some V0s at Chebucto's Foot area. It is good to see her climbin' :)
On the way back, we stopped at Twin Sister Boulder again and I finished Lance's Dance V4 SDS*. It was again sloper arete problem... I hate them xD
Luke told me he can climb in night time but I was so exhausted and decided not to climb in night. We met at the rotary where most of the climbers carpool and chatted a bit. Then after that taka and I went to Economy Shoe Shop to get some energy back :D I personally like this place because it is cheap and liked the atmosphere, especially eating outside.
Slot Problem V2*** -> FL
Swinging Deals V4 SDS*
x Adrenaline Junkie V6***
Tough Sailors V7 SDS***
x Andy's Problem V3**
The A Team V4 SDS**
Mantle Pro V2*
Little Piggy V3 SDS
Lance's Dance V4 SDS*
Today is the last day at Nova Scotia and we decided to go to Chebucto where people say the approach is not so long.
Finally it was sunny but Chebucto was very hot. I liked the location because of the old light house making it look beautiful.
We started from Twin Sister Boulder with some easy but not so easy problem. I jumped on to Slot Problem V2***, a super classic, and flashed; I thought it was kind similar problem like ones in Gunks, horizontal cracks.
Next on the same boulder, I got to Swinging Deals V4 SDS*, which is arete slopey problem. I always hated these problem, scary and balancey. Anyway I was managed to finish it in 3 or 4 times of try.
I tried Adrenaline Junkie V6*** but it was no luck, I might need an inch or two to finish this seam problem which I thought it looked great. Then I hopped onto Tough Sailors V7 SDS*** and tried to figure out the problem by parts. It wasn't tall people's problem so I tried of an hour and finally redpointed.
We wondered around to find the other problem and found Andy's Problem V3** but I could not finish it because of bad crimps...
After that we moved to Chebucto's Foot and the blog will continue to next one:)
We went out to Prince Edward Island (PEI) about 3.5 hour driving from Halifax. First of all, I did not know PEI was a province and two I have never seen or read Ann of Green Gables where most of store was in PEI.
Before going to PEI we crossed Confederation Bridge, where New Brunswick and PEI is linked. The length was 10 minutes ride and have to pay $45 toll when you go back to New Brunswick. Pretty expensive...
When we arrived at PEI we stopped by at a restaurant and had a crab for lunch.
Then we went to Green Gables where you can see the house of Ann. They were nicely decorated and well maintained. I also liked the surrounding trails and barn. Took some funny photos:)
On the way back home, we stopped by at COW'S and had great ice cream. Not only that but I like their T-shirts and we bought ourselves Farmbook T-shirt, lol.
Arriving at Halifax, we went out to Brooklyn Warehouse for dinner; eating again:) This is where Luke told us to go and was a great place to each. Food was just super good, little costly but the quality was by far good. Again thanks for Luke. Oh, he said he takes his wife on a special occasion, no wonder:)
今日はお休みデー。例によって観光しました。今回はプリンスエドワード島（PEI）へ。車でHalifaxから3.5時間と少々遠い。でもクライミングしてる人には大したことない距離か？とりあえず日帰りで頑張ったヾ(*ΦωΦ)ﾉ PEIには「赤毛のアン」で有名なGreen Gablesがある。と言うか、赤毛のアンって英語で直訳したら「レッドヘッド・アン」ｗｗｗ (*￣m￣)ﾌﾟｯ もちろん違います、「Ann of Green Gables」です。
The weather at Dartmouth is drizzling... as we hoping for sun along the shore, we drove to Land of Confusion (LOC). The road was wet for long but as we are getting closer the it became cloudy. Luke told us that the weather is different at the area so I thought we were lucky.
After battling with our guide book, we parked our car and headed for famous J.A.C.K.'s Arete V5. We also wandered around the path and more than 30 minutes of walking we finally reached to the boulder. You definitely need a guide to get there or any other places. As also Luke mentioned that inland during the summer time is not good with bugs and it was pretty bad... some mosquitoes and black flies.
I have warmed up with Hollow Man V3*, but it was difficult due to the hard sharp crimp, but managed to finished it. I thought it was like Japanese problems:)
Then I got onto J.A.C.K.'s Arete V5, but no luck... there were no good foot hold where I could not reach the lip of the problem; it also made me many bad scars... painful and scary.
We moved to different location, close to the coast line. We had to walk quite a bit again but able to find one route that interested me in. George Foreman Grill V4 SDS*. The rock type looked different, very smooth looking and feeling. I was managed to finish with bad crimps.
Also we moved forward to different area where we can see Peggy Cove. There were variety of problems but we were so tired walking today.... I got onto some of difficult problems but no luck but instead I was able to finish bad slab problem BK McMuffin V4**. It might be easier if you are taller.
Dinner we went to Shaw's Landing Sea-Front Dining on our way back to Halifax and had lobster. The best was the fried clam! Yummy but fatty:)
今日はDartmouthでは小雨のような天気、でもLuke曰く海岸沿いは天気が違うことが多いとのことなのでLand of Confusion (LOC)へ行ってみることに。途中までは小雨が降って地面も濡れてたけど、LOC到着時には小雨もやんでた。うむ、登れそうだ
Since the sharp granite killed my finger skins, we took a rest day and went to Lunenburg, a historic port town and World Heritage Site.
Lunenburg had colorful painted building with fine curving.
We also had some good food at The Grand Banker Bar & Grill.
お昼はThe Grand Banker Bar & Grillで美味しいものを食ったヾ(@⌒¬⌒@)ﾉ カナダの食事はアメリカと比べて少ないのがいい。だからカナダの人は細いのネ
↑Fish Cake & Friesとサラダ。食わないとエネルギー回復しないゼ
The view of the port town is one of its famous touring so we went to the other side.
その他にSt John’s Anglican Churchが綺麗ということで行った。
Also St John’s Anglican Church is one of beautiful building in the town.
↑St John’s Anglican Church
Going back to Halifax, we stopped at Mahone Bay and had some ice cream; the day was super hot.
Night we went to the port in Halifax.
We had dinner where Luke told us his favorite, Economy Shoe Shop. Donno why it is named a shoe shop but it is a good atmosphere restaurant.
夕食はLukeがおすすめしてくれたEconomy Shoe Shopへ行く。値段も割安だし雰囲気もいいし、外で食事ができたのが良かった。
After finishing The Bulldog V6***, I tried Fulcrum V4 SDS* which is only two difficult move problem. I was flashed.
We moved other classic problem where there is White Trash V8 SDS***. Climbers told me many beta but none of them are fit to me so I broken down to each moves and combined the betas, and it worked. The problem is beta intensive so it is rated V8 but otherwise it would be same as Bulldog. At any rate, I was happy to finish it.
Finally we all went to Exciter V7***, a super classic, and worked on it but no luck... However next to that, there was another good problem, John Doe V4***. Many people were working on it and was not my style but I was able flash it.
Thanks to Luke's guide, I have done many other classic problems, and it was awesome out in Dover Island. I was glad the weather stayed:)
After climbing we were invited to Ben and Krissy apt. Ben was the strongest around and was Evolve sponsor, no wonder. We had fun with BBQ and beer, we all liked to talk about climbing:)
The Bulldog V6***を終えたので違う課題で遊ぶ。Fulcrum V4 SDS*に取り付いてみたのだが2手もので一回で完登。立ち上がりが難しいがそれ以外は特に難しくはなかった。
Exciter V7***があるエリアへ。トポの表紙の課題で登りたいと思って取り付いたが、、、、アボン。ムーヴが難しい（トップの写真）！結構打ち込まないと登れなさそうだったんで諦めて、John Doe V4***をやる。と言うか、Exciterのデッドポイントが痛すぎるorz John Doeはお蔭様でFlashできた。若干スラブのフェース課題でカチがメイン、しかもhigh ball。落ちたらヤバイ。
Second day at Nova Scotia, I called up Hertz to get a car for me. They told us that they will reimburse the taxi fare so I went to rental car place at Halifax.
Luke and we were to meet on 10:00am at Dartmouth Hampton Inn, where we were staying but we actually met up at where most of the climbers carpool. We managed to meet with him and drove to supermarket to get some food and drink. Luke told me that the heat at Dover Island is intensive that we should bring at least a liter for each.
We got on to a boat from West Dover and rode a boat to Dover Island. It was about 5 minutes from the coast to the island; priceless place but cost us $20 each, bit expensive. In the island we walked about 10 minutes to the warm up area.
Everybody was warming up on easy routes from V0-V2. Taka and I finished The Coffin V2***, it was great smearing problem you don't see in Gunks:)
Luke started to introduce me some classic problems. The Bear V4 SDS*** was good friction and palm climbing, again you can't see these in Gunks. The features hurt but nothing different from Japanese granites. I personally like The Bear V4 SDS***.
On our way to other classic, Megan and Ryan were at Todd's Slopey Forehead V3 SDS**. They mentioned that the sit start has been destroyed after big waves from storms. It was also interesting that the boulder next to that was totally gone! I was surprised that the waves are very powerful.
I hopped on to The Wave V5 SDS*** which I though I could flash it but the mantle was hectic because I had to reach for very far gaston but for 5th tries I finished it.
Also next to there were crowd that were trying to do Bulldog V6 SDS*** and I also got into session. I broke down to 3 parts to make all the moves. It took me several times but managed to finish it.
I think it was due to mileage reward flight to Halifax, we have arrived at Halifax Airport 1:30 at night... Although, I had my rental car reservation at Hertz, nobody was at the front desk. Avis personnel was kind enough to wait for their customer but not for us. There was another lady waiting for a car but we decided to go to our hotel at Dartmouth by taxi, couldn't wait until the morning...
With Saturday's BBQ at my boss house, I could not get out of my bed. We were supposed to meet with Diana, Luke and Yasu at Peter's Kill but I had to go there late. We managed to move at around 10am and reached to Pkill at 11:40am.
We started climb at Quarantine Boulder. Yasu and taka finished Tree-Bola Direct-Direct V1. taka had hard time sitting start but easily worked her way. I have done some of V1 so that my alcohol dissolves, lol. I could not do VD V3, a dyno version because of lack of jump height.
Moving to Rock Garden, I repeated Mentos V4. I have also tried Tiger Style V7*. I don't remember when my last try was but I got to where people lunges. I might have to work myself little more up but next time when it is cold and dry I will jump.
Yasu finished his project, Seven Sugars V2, in one shot. I have done it too, could not flash it, not good. We also did Will You V1 so that Luke can get on to some problems.
My other project is Village Idiot V7*. Unfortunately, the start hold was wet from the rain during the weekdays. I was able to hit the far upper left pocket hold the first time but could not stick to it. I have to be stronger and the rock have to be dry. Next time gadget!
Finally, we went to Warm Up Boulder. taka and Yasu finished Fire Escape V1*. I have done all other V1 too but could not do Spew Harder V4*. I could not start.... Need little more longer arm.
I would like to get back there during fall, when it is super dry.